Trying out the Filawinder

NOTE: I'm catching up on Blogger and decided to post these draft posts that I've had partially written. I'm not completing them at this point and probably won't revisit them, but as a big part of the reason for blogging is to remind myself of what I was thinking/doing, they're still valid in this sense. This draft was dated 28/12/2015.

In a previous post (and the one before) I mentioned the plan to get a Filastruder.  Well, I've had that for a while, but not really used it for a multitude of reasons.  One being the space it needs for the filament to self spool on the ground.

I then ordered a Filawinder in the hope this would allow me the consign the entire system to fixed working space.

The Filawinder is assembled, but I am trying to play nice which is the topic of this article.  As much a place for me to remember what I did as anything.

Key points:

• I have downloaded the latest firmware (v10a) from here: http://www.soliforum.com/post/50928/#p50928  (For some reason it doesn't appear to be linked on the main documentation page - http://www.soliforum.com/topic/5088/filawinder-documentation/)
• I use 3mm filament, so have added a Jumper to D12
• For debugging, adding a Jumper to D11

Initial results are the same as the ones experienced in this post (http://www.soliforum.com/topic/5088/filawinder-documentation/), so I am trying Ian's suggest mod in the responding post.

Following the Wiki calibration page

NOTE: I'm catching up on Blogger and decided to post these draft posts that I've had partially written. I'm not completing them at this point and probably won't revisit them, but as a big part of the reason for blogging is to remind myself of what I was thinking/doing, they're still valid in this sense. This draft was dated April 2012. 

As the title says, I am following the wiki's calibration page.

Bed levelling
I mentioned this in my last post.  The bed is now perfectly level thanks to the conversion to a 3-bolt structure instead of 4.  I did however discover on printing the calibration object (bedleveling.stl) that the one corner was sitting high.  Closer inspection revealed that I must have knocked the Dibond bed plate in the past as the corresponding corner has a small dent.  I managed to salvage the situation by adding some washers to the spacers I used to mount the PCB heated bed.  In other words the PCB is now at an angle to the Dibond, but square to the x-axis (which is what counts).

While we're on this topic, the bed specific page on the wiki suggests the use of thumbscrews for the bed.  I like the idea, but will be designing my own as my bed bolts (and z-axis end stop adjuster) use M4 bolts.  The thread pitch on these is 0.7mm.  i.e. each full revolution of the bolt results in an adjustment of 0.7mm.  So, instead of having a thumbscrew with 6 "bumps", why not make one with 7.  That way it is easy to gauge by eye if you are adjusting by 0.1mm (or even 0.05mm if you move it halfway).  Think about it!! Pure genius!!

Sidetrack!!!
Ooh Boy!! just when you think everything is going swimmingly!!!  Have a look at this!!

Layer Height

What's Now... Mendel 90 in progress

First, a quick recap on my last post, projects planned:

• Filament extruder: I backed the filastruder Kickstarter so am just waiting for my kit to arrive so I can start experimenting with making my own filament.
• Plastic shredder/grinder: No progress - Marcus Thymark is now focussed on his extruder, and his shredder although done is appears to be temporarily shelved.
• Mendel90:  I've started work on this.  A colleague from work also wants one, so I have started collecting parts and printing.

With trying to print the parts of the Mendel90's, I have been following Nophead's recommended settings, but find the print quality isn't so great.  Some Googling has suggested that moving to Marlin from Sprinter would be a good idea, so today I am tackling this:

1. Download the latest Marlin from GitHub
2. Update the configuration.h file to suit my printer.  See these links for further info:
1. 3d Printing update: Sprinter versus Marlin firmware & more
2. Forum Topic
3. Verify/Compile & Upload as per normal
1. I found this didn't work as I used the new Hardware (Sanguinololu) definitions included with Marlin.  When I reverted to the Sprinter Hardware files it worked.
4. PID Tuning
1. One of the things I wanted to switch on in Marlin is PID control of the HotEnd.  I found this blog article by Lincomatic well written and helpful.
5. Test and re-calibrate.
1. I created my own stepped piece for use with Triffid Hunter's Calibration Guide as I found the 5x5 was a bit difficult to see while the printer is moving.

So, I now have Marlin running and a re-calibrated printer, so we will see if this helps with the Mendel90 Plastics printing...